Needle

Thread

• Gütermann Mara 100 for seams
• Gütermann Mara 70 for topstitching

Quick Tips

• Pre-wash. Chambray loses noticeable size and softens significantly after the first wash
• Frays steadily once cut; serge, zigzag, or French-seam raw edges
• Looks like denim but behaves like shirting. Don't reach for a jeans needle out of habit
• Contrasting topstitching thread (gold, white, or red) gives the classic workshirt look

Detail

Chambray is a plain-weave cotton with a colored warp and white weft. It looks like lightweight denim but drapes like fine shirting cotton. It's the canonical American workshirt fabric, from chore coats to Eisenhower jackets to modern button-ups. Despite the denim look, sew it like poplin: universal or Microtex needle, standard tension, prompt edge finishing. Flat-felled seams give the authentic workshirt look and add durability. Contrasting topstitching on yokes and patch pockets makes chambray read as workwear rather than dress.