Knits
Cotton Jersey
tshirtbase-layermidlayer

Needle

PrimarySchmetz Jersey/Ball Point 80/12
AlternativeSchmetz Stretch 75/11

Thread

  • Gütermann Mara 100 polyester (slight stretch matches the fabric)
  • Gütermann Mara 120 for fine lightweight jersey

Machine Settings

Singer Heavy Duty 4452
Stitch length2.5–3.0 mm
Stitch width2.0–3.0 mm narrow zigzag, or lightning stitch if available
Tension3–3.5
Presser footWalking foot strongly recommended

Quick Tips

  • Never use a straight stitch on seams that will stretch. Threads pop the first time the garment is pulled over the head
  • Cut edges curl toward the right side; use clips and don't fight the curl. It relaxes once the seam is stitched
  • A twin-needle hem gives a flat, professional finish that mimics a coverstitch
  • Stabilize shoulder seams with clear elastic or stay tape. They bear stress and shouldn't stretch

Detail

Cotton jersey is the foundational t-shirt fabric, a single knit with a smooth face and slightly textured back. Weights run 140 gsm (light drapey summer tees), 180 gsm (standard), 220+ gsm (heavier structured tees). The signature home-sewer challenge is the cut edge, which curls aggressively on lighter weights. Let it curl, work with it; don't try to press it flat. The other shift from woven is the stitch. A straight stitch on a stretch seam will break the first time it's loaded. Use a narrow zigzag (2.0 mm × 2.5 mm) or a lightning bolt stitch if the 4452 has one. For hems, a twin needle delivers parallel topstitching with a zigzag underneath, mimicking the flatlock or coverstitch on commercial tees.