Natural
Cotton Poplin
shirtliningpocket

Needle

PrimarySchmetz Microtex Sharp 70/10 or 80/12
AlternativeSchmetz Universal 80/12

Thread

  • Gütermann Mara 120 for fine poplin
  • Gütermann Mara 100 for standard weight

Machine Settings

Singer Heavy Duty 4452
Stitch length2.0–2.5 mm
Stitch width0 (straight stitch); 4.0 mm zigzag for edge finishing
Tension3.5–4
Presser footStandard foot

Quick Tips

  • Pre-wash. Quality poplin shrinks, and you want the shrinkage to happen before the fabric is cut
  • Press seams as you go; cotton poplin holds a crease beautifully and shows unpressed seams clearly
  • Use Microtex needles to avoid visible holes in the tight plain weave
  • Edge-finish promptly. Poplin frays steadily once cut

Detail

Cotton poplin is a tight plain-weave cotton with a slight ribbed texture (weft heavier than warp). It's the workhorse shirting fabric for button-ups, light pants, and pocket bags. Compared to polyester broadcloth, it presses crisper and frays harder. A Microtex needle pushes through cleanly without leaving visible holes, which matters on shirts. Use 2.0 mm stitches for collar and cuff topstitching, 2.5 mm for side seams. Press seams open on dressier shirts, to one side and topstitch on workshirts.