Knits
Cotton Rib Knit
tshirtmidlayertrim

Needle

PrimarySchmetz Jersey/Ball Point 80/12
AlternativeSchmetz Stretch 75/11

Thread

  • Gütermann Mara 100

Machine Settings

Singer Heavy Duty 4452
Stitch length2.0–2.5 mm
Stitch width2.5–3.5 mm zigzag
Tension3–3.5
Presser footWalking foot

Quick Tips

  • Cut rib trim shorter than the opening it's attaching to, typically 80–90% for necklines and 90% for cuffs. It stretches to fit and pulls in cleanly
  • Quarter the opening and the rib (mark four equal points on each) and match the quarters before sewing. This distributes the stretch evenly
  • Don't pull the rib while attaching it; stretch it to match the quarter marks and let the machine feed
  • 1×1 rib (alternating single ribs) is softer and more elastic; 2×2 rib (paired ribs) is heavier and used on sweatshirt cuffs

Detail

Cotton rib knit is the companion fabric to every t-shirt and sweatshirt: cuffs, collars, neckbands, hems, and occasionally a ribbed body. The defining property is bidirectional elasticity with strong recovery, exactly what a neckband needs to stretch over a head and snap closed. The core skill is sizing the rib. Too long, the trim flops; too short, it puckers the body. Quartering works: mark four equal points on the rib and the opening, match them, stretch the rib evenly between marks. 1×1 rib is standard for t-shirt necklines. 2×2 rib is heavier, used on sweatshirt cuffs and hems. Buy rib trim that matches the body fabric's fiber content so they shrink and age together.