Needle

Thread

• Gütermann Mara 100 for seams
• Gütermann Mara 70 for topstitching and stress seams

Quick Tips

• Cut all pieces in the same direction. Sateen has a subtle sheen direction that's only obvious once a garment is assembled
• Use a fresh, sharp needle. The dense weave shows skipped stitches and tension flaws plainly on the smooth surface
• Press seams open with steam for a flat, tailored finish
• Pre-wash to remove sizing. Sateen often comes heavily starched off the bolt

Detail

Cotton sateen is a smooth, lustrous weave used for British military trousers (the 107 pattern), traditional chinos, and dressier workwear pants. Long warp floats give it a soft sheen on the face and a matte cotton back. Denser than twill, it shows stitch flaws plainly. Clean tension and a fresh needle matter. Microtex needles pierce the tight weave without deflecting yarns. Use flat-felled or French seams on pants. Press seams open on shirts. The sheen direction is subtle but real. Cut all pieces with the same orientation.