Needle

Thread

• Gütermann Mara 100
• Gütermann Elasticord on hems where extra stretch retention matters

Quick Tips

• The Stretch needle's specially shaped scarf is essential. Universal and even ballpoint needles will skip stitches over spandex
• Press with low heat only; spandex degrades above ~150°C and turns brittle, ruining the garment's recovery
• Stabilize necklines and shoulders with clear elastic. These are the seams that lose shape first if left unsupported
• Cut on a single layer or with very sharp shears. Spandex blends shift on the cutting mat and come out distorted otherwise

Detail

Cotton/spandex jersey (typically 92/8 or 95/5) is the modern stretch t-shirt fabric. Spandex gives the garment recovery; pure cotton jersey gradually bags out. It's the right fabric for fitted tees, leggings, and athletic-leaning casual wear. Sew it like cotton jersey with three real adjustments. A Stretch needle is non-negotiable (Universal and Ballpoint will both skip stitches on the spandex). Keep heat low to avoid degrading the spandex. Stabilize necklines and shoulders, because the fabric stretches in every direction, not just across the grain. Hem with a twin needle for a clean, recoverable finish. Regular thread on topstitching will pop unless you switch to a stretch-thread bobbin or zigzag underneath.