Needle

Thread

• Gütermann Mara 100 for seams
• Gütermann Mara 70 for topstitching

Quick Tips

• Brushed nap sheds visible lint. Clean out the bobbin area and feed dogs after each sweatshirt-sized project
• Bulk at hood-to-body and waistband seams adds up fast; trim seam allowances to 6–8mm after joining and topstitch flat
• Pair with 2×2 cotton rib for cuffs, waistband, and hood opening
• A walking foot is the single biggest quality-of-life upgrade. Without it, the brushed face slips against a standard foot and seams wander

Detail

Cotton sweatshirt fleece is the classic hoodie and sweatpants fabric, a heavier knit (typically 280–380 gsm) with a brushed back that traps air and feels soft against skin. Compared to Polartec Grid Fleece, it's heavier, less technical, less moisture-wicking, but warmer per gram and more comfortable. The brushed nap is the main sewing consideration. It sheds lint into the feed dogs and bobbin, slows the foot's glide, and adds bulk at seam intersections. A walking foot fixes the glide. Trimming allowances and pressing flat fixes the bulk. Vacuum the bobbin between projects for the lint. For hoodies, channel-stitch the hood interlining so it doesn't collapse flat behind the wearer's head.