Natural
Cotton Twill
workwearshellpocketlining

Needle

PrimarySchmetz Universal 80/12 or 90/14
AlternativeSchmetz Jeans 80/12 for tighter weaves

Thread

  • Gütermann Mara 100 for seams
  • Gütermann Mara 70 or Mara 30 for topstitching

Machine Settings

Singer Heavy Duty 4452
Stitch length2.5–3.0 mm
Stitch width0 (straight stitch); 5.0 mm zigzag for edge finishing
Tension4 (standard)
Presser footStandard foot; walking foot for multiple layers

Quick Tips

  • Pre-wash to account for shrinkage before cutting
  • Serge or zigzag raw edges. Twill frays readily
  • Diagonal weave means bias edges stretch easily; handle cut pieces carefully
  • Press seams open for flatter, more professional results

Detail

Cotton twill is forgiving. Feed is consistent, tension is predictable, and it presses easily. The diagonal weave drapes well and works for pants, aprons, and jackets. The watch-out is fraying. Finish raw edges immediately after cutting. For workwear durability, drop to a 2.5 mm stitch and double-stitch stress points. Mara 100 in a matching color is the default. Step up to Mara 70 for high-stress seams.