Needle

Thread

• Gütermann Mara 100

Quick Tips

• Pre-wash twice. Flannel shrinks noticeably and unpredictably; better to wash off the bolt before cutting
• Match plaids and checks before cutting. Flannel patterns are usually directional and obvious when misaligned
• Brush lint out of the bobbin area between sewing sessions; the nap sheds significantly
• Press from the back with steam to avoid flattening or scorching the brushed face

Detail

Flannel is brushed cotton in twill or plain weave. The brushed nap traps air and adds warmth at minimal weight cost. The main sewing considerations are shrinkage (often 5–10% on first wash) and plaid matching. Plaid alignment is what separates a store-bought-looking flannel from a homemade-looking one. Cut single-layer, use plenty of clips to align repeats at seam lines. The nap hides pins and causes slight feed inconsistency. A walking foot helps on heavier flannels and when using flannel as a winter lining.