Fabric
Spec
Spec
Knits
French Terry
Needle
PrimarySchmetz Jersey 80/12
AlternativeSchmetz Jersey 90/14 for heavier weights
Thread
- Gütermann Mara 100
Machine Settings
Singer Heavy Duty 4452| Stitch length | 2.5–3.0 mm |
| Stitch width | 2.5–3.5 mm zigzag for stretch seams; 0 for stable seams (yokes, waistbands) |
| Tension | 3.5 |
| Presser foot | Walking foot recommended |
Quick Tips
- The loop side is the wrong side. Cut all garment pieces with the smooth face out
- Loops can catch on the needle plate; sew with the loop side up if possible, and slow down at the start of each seam
- French terry hems beautifully with a twin needle; for stretch seams, use a narrow zigzag
- Pair with 2×2 rib trim at cuffs and waistbands for the classic sweatshirt silhouette
Detail
French terry is a knit with a jersey face and looped back, lighter than sweatshirt fleece. The textured back gives moisture-wicking and good warmth-to-weight. Weights run 220–280 gsm, sweatshirt and light hoodie territory. More forgiving than fine jersey: more body, less curl, easier feed. Two considerations: loop direction (loops face inward in finished garments) and stitch choice (zigzag or lightning for stretch seams, straight only on stable seams like yokes). Standard sweatshirt build order: shoulders → neckband → sleeves in flat → side seams from cuff to hem in one pass.