Fabric
Spec
Spec
Technical
Softshell (Woven Stretch)
Needle
PrimarySchmetz Stretch 75/11 or 80/12
AlternativeSchmetz Microtex Sharp 80/12 for non-stretch woven softshell
Thread
- Gütermann Mara 100
Machine Settings
Singer Heavy Duty 4452| Stitch length | 2.5–3.0 mm |
| Stitch width | 2.0–3.0 mm zigzag for stretch versions; 0 for non-stretch |
| Tension | 4 |
| Presser foot | Walking foot recommended |
Quick Tips
- Test stitch type on scrap. Stretch vs. non-stretch softshell behave very differently
- The DWR finish can cause skipped stitches. Sew slowly and use a fresh needle
- Seam tape on exposed seams restores DWR protection lost at the needle holes
- Press with a low-heat setting and press cloth. The DWR coating can degrade with direct heat
Detail
Softshell is a broad category: woven or knit fabrics with a DWR finish, often bonded to a fleece or tricot backer. The woven-stretch varieties are the most common for MYOG technical pants, jackets, and active layers. The DWR finish is the main sewing challenge. It causes needle drag and skipped stitches under a standard foot. A Teflon or walking foot helps. The bonded backer adds bulk. Plan seam allowances accordingly and trim carefully. For exposed seams, seam tape restores water resistance and gives a cleaner inside finish.